Ethnobotanical valorization of mahogany bark (Swietenia macrophylla) as a plant-based natural dye for sustainable batik in Aceh, Indonesia
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Abstract. Novita N, Dahlan D, Iqbar I, Bahi M. 2026. Ethnobotanical valorization of mahogany bark (Swietenia macrophylla) as a plant-based natural dye for sustainable batik in Aceh, Indonesia. Asian J Ethnobiol 9: y090112. https://doi.org/10.13057/asianjethnobiol/y090112. Growing concern about synthetic dye pollution has renewed ethnobiological interest in plant-based colorants as expressions of traditional ecological knowledge and biocultural heritage. In Aceh, Indonesia, bark-derived dyes have long been associated with local textile practices, yet many remain poorly documented and underutilized in contemporary batik production. This study examines the ethnobiological relevance and dyeing performance of mahogany bark (Swietenia macrophylla), a culturally familiar tree species and abundant urban pruning residue, as a natural dye for cotton batik. Although this research does not include primary ethnographic fieldwork, it is informed by documented regional knowledge of bark-based dyes and current artisanal batik practices in Aceh. Mahogany bark collected from the Universitas Syiah Kuala (USK) Green Campus, Aceh, was air-dried, milled, and extracted using an energy-efficient aqueous method at 90°C (yield: 18.7±1.2%). Cotton fabrics were dyed under three mordanting conditions (no mordant, alum 10% owf, and iron 5% owf). CIELAB analysis showed consistent chromatic variation, ranging from light yellow-brown (unmordanted) to bright yellowish (alum) and deep brown-gray (iron). Fastness tests (ISO 105) indicated moderate to excellent wash, rub, and light fastness, with iron-mordanted samples performing best. Statistical analysis (ANOVA, p<0.05) confirmed significant treatment effects. By linking material performance with ethnobiological context, this study contributes to ethnobiology by demonstrating how traditional plant knowledge can be revitalized through circular, low-waste dyeing systems, supporting the biocultural sustainability of Acehnese batik.
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